As summer sets in, the biannual round of men’s fashion shows begins today in Milan. Here, over the next four days, designers will present their vision for what they think people will be wearing next spring.
Sure to be among the highlights are regular heavy hitters such as Prada, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana, which typically draw a star-studded crowd to elaborate venues. After all, there appears to be no shortage of medieval castles and lush courtyards in the city, where brands can stage their shows.
Some labels are also newly joining the Milan show schedule. British menswear stalwart Paul Smith, which normally shows in Paris, will make its Milan debut, following a special runway last summer at the Florence tradeshow Pitti Uomo. Fresh off staging its first-ever bridal catwalk in Barcelona in May, Vivienne Westwood will present its latest menswear designs in Milan (since 2017, the label has typically staged a co-ed show in Paris featuring both men’s and women’s looks).
Emirati fashion brand Qasimi and Japanese label Setchu are also joining the lineup, the latter of which — led by a designer with a love for fishing — presented a special collection at Pitti Uomo, in January, that was warmly received by editors and other attendees. Elsewhere, up-and-coming British designer Saul Nash, who has become known for his activewear pieces, will stage a show in Milan for the second time (his first took place in at the beginning of this year).
Notably absent from the event are Gucci, Fendi and Zegna, three pillars of Italian luxury. Gucci has been without a designer since February; it has yet to be announced when new, incoming creative director, Demna, will unveil his first collection for the brand. Fendi — whose menswear collections are designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, a third-generation member of the Fendi family — is also taking a step back this season. The brand did not explain why. Meanwhile, Italian house Zegna decided to stage a show in Dubai instead earlier this month.
Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni and Tod’s are eschewing a runway format in favor of an intimate presentation. DSquared2 — founded and designed by identical twin brothers — is also shunning its typical high-octane party-style catwalk (in February the label marked its 30th anniversary with a performance from the Grammy Award-winning rapper and singer Doechii) and will instead stage an event. Of what magnitude, we will have to wait and see.
